Back in 2004, food writer Mark Bittman recommended a sea shack restaurant by the wharves in Reykjavik called Saegreifinn (Sea Baron), where the local bisque, rich in briny minerals, is made from small Arctic lobster. But he also wrote, “It’s unlikely that Reykjavik will ever be a culinary destination, but that doesn’t mean you can’t eat well here.”

That was then. Now, not only can you eat well in Iceland, really well, but over the years I could see it evolving into a culinary destination. The chefs of Iceland have stepped up their game since 2004, and if Bittman ever wants to spend a week in a van and on horseback with a bunch wild women…..

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