Shut Up and Suck It Up

In 2010 Iceland was a mess. They had, in succession: a financial meltdown caused by three men who absconded with the country’s money (Reykjavik was full of scaffolding and dangling cranes hanging off unfinished buildings); the volcanic eruption of Eyjafjallajokull that stopped air traffic for weeks, halting tourism and causing more financial loss; and worst of … More Shut Up and Suck It Up

To Baltasar, with Love

We are in Saudarkrokur (Sau∂árkrókur), which Helgi said to remember as “sodacracker.” The town is like Holar, another Shangri-La nestled between snow- capped mountains. We are here to watch Christina and Helga compete in a regional horse competition. It is a bright and sunny night with a cold, brisk wind. We are in parkas, hats, gloves … More To Baltasar, with Love

Welcome to Iceland

Arrival in Keflavik is always a dreary affair. Maybe it is because we arrive just before midnight, but it is eerily quiet for an airport even though four flights have deplaned at about the same time. And even though the sun is on the horizon and it is the longest day of the year, the … More Welcome to Iceland

Getting Lost

    Armed with only a map (Ortelius, 1590) First time, right off the bat, pre-GPS and armed with only a map, we got lost. Within 20 minutes of leaving Reykjavik we saw a fork in the road and after putting all our collective navigational skills to work, we took the wrong turn. It took about … More Getting Lost